This nationwide chain from Beijing specializes in braised fish heads. And it's a gigantic fish head at that; it's literally called a bighead carp. And it's a bottom-feeding freshwater fish, so the point isn't to eat the meaty flesh, but the gelatinous collagen around the cheek and eye.
It requires a bit of work (and even if one eats the flesh, it's rather bony and thus also requires some effort). But there is an easy escape hatch, as they also throw in greasy carbs to soak up the sauce. The included not just plain laobing pancakes cut into squares, but also a big youtiao that they cut up like at Shan Jiu Ye.
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