It turns out that my hotel in Hong Kong is very close to Under Bridge Spicy Crab in Wan Chai. So I hopped on over, this time opting for the "very spicy" (four of five chilies) version of their typhoon shelter crab. And it turned out to be just right: spicy enough to be fun without being distracting.
The thing that they do right here is frying the garlic just long enough that it becomes more earthy than pungent, all while refraining from burning and excessive grease, yet balancing with just the right amount of salt (and no flour, yay!).
That mixture pairs well with the mildly sweet crab meat, but also makes for a fantastic porridge (basically, ask for plain porridge afterwards, and mix in some garlic, peanuts, and back fat, and you've got a wonderfully savory thing in a bowl). It was too expensive at HK$488 (US$62) though.
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