This place turned out a lot better than I thought it would (49 Tras Street). They emphasize dry aging, fermentation, and wood fire techniques, and it all came together nicely in the food. That kinmedai above, for instance, was dry aged for four days and was pleasantly savory, even without the fermented chicken sauce on the side. I was similarly happy with a pork cheek that they did with maitake and shio koji, not to mention a side dish of impressively meaty mushrooms. The service needed polishing, but they were nonetheless friendly and attentive.
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