Byeolcheonji Seolnongtang in Mapo-gu, Seoul

This seolleongtang shop near Hongdae Street had giant vats of bone-filled browth boiling away in the window, making for a convenient and satisfying dinner on this cold wet night (161-8 Donggyo-dong, +82-2-338-9966). They offer several cuts of meat for you to choose from, with mine above featuring mandu dumplings as well as sliced beef, the latter of which was a bit boring but did the job, especially after spiking the unseasoned broth with a huge scoop of salt, pepper, and onions. The kimchi was quite interesting too in that they were gigantic pieces that required each diner to cut them up with scissors. It might be interesting to try the other things on the menu, like the shared bulgogi stew as well as the naengmyeon when they finally serve it in the summer.