A local guide took me around to a number of places in Bairro Alto tonight, and this little family-run place was my favorite (Rua da Barroca 24, 21-346-3813). The family part was the key: they make their own wine as well as piri-piri sauce, which was impressively potent, lighting up not just their gritty fish soup but also that duck rice above with its firmly cooked and savory grains perfumed with a quick squeeze of orange. The cozy wood paneled interior and cast of characters in the family made it all the more endearing. Awesome.
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