Thursday, February 05, 2015

Duddell's at the Shanghai Tang Mansion, HK

Taro Puffs with Roasted Duck and Goose Liver

A place named Duddell's doesn't exactly sound like Cantonese. Indeed, even when walking inside, the decor doesn't give any hint of being a Cantonese place either (3-4/F, 1 Duddell Street, +852-2525-9191). But these guys serve Cantonese food...or at least, a modern and upscale rendition of it, complete with table linens and a wine list.

And oh man, was the food good. Witness those taro root balls above: sure, it sounds like Cantonese dim sum, but they shoved some delicious roasted duck and goose liver in there. Other dishes similarly had some fun ingredients woven into them, including morels, truffles, and matsutake mushrooms. Even without those, there was some tasty fat hiding underneath our simple crispy pigeon.

To be clear, they didn't add those ingredients in there just for the sake of making it seem fancy; the dishes honestly came together much that I wasn't even conscious of whether it was Cantonese or not, but rather simply that it was just darned good food. Yes, I liked this better than Lung King Heen, and I'll easily come back on my next visit, perhaps over dinner when we can pair these dishes with wine.

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