Gi Kee Seafood Restaurant, Hong Kong
This was a dai pai dong, but on an air-conditioned floor above a wet market in Happy Valley (2/F Wong Nai Chung Complex, 2 Yuk Sau Street, 2574-9937). Just because it was air-conditioned didn't mean that it was posh though; similar to its outdoor brethren, we sat on plastic stools surrounding plastic-wrapped tables with a roll of toilet paper on top, we washed our utensils in hot water before eating, and we drank local Sonderberg beer (similar to Blue Girl beer, it claimed to be "imported"). It was apparently a very popular place - to the point where it helped to have a reservation.
We came here for a number of dishes, the first of which was literally translated as "wind sand chicken." With fried garlic showered all over the bird, it was certainly tasty, and was a bit like Bangkok's Polo Fried Chicken. Its close relative, typhoon shelter crab, was offered too, but the crab butter in ours was so tough that I easily preferred Under Bridge's instead. We also got their shark's fin soup - but rather than the thick version that one usually gets at fancy wedding banquets, this one came in a refreshingly thin and clear chicken broth, complete with chicken feet inside.
Last but certainly not least, we came here to eat "pork lard rice," an old school dish that used to be common in HK but has since become rather hard to find due to health reasons (we had to pre-order it from these guys). What exactly is it? Well, you get a big pot of steaming hot rice together with a small bowl of pork lard that you pour onto the rice. The heat from the rice melts the lard, after which you give it a couple drops of soy sauce for flavor, and mix it all up. It doesn't look like much and might not necessarily sound that enticing either, but it tastes great, even if it provides an instant heart attack. I suppose that it wasn't necessarily that different from putting salt and butter into rice though.