Here's the mapo tofu from Ba Yu Ren Jia (thanks for the tip). It was a bit thicker than I was expecting but was otherwise spot-on, and helped to easily shovel down two bowls of steamed rice with it.
In that sense, I'm not sure why the Sunday Times criticized it for being "one-dimensional without enough sweetness and sourness to balance the spices." This dish really isn't supposed to be sweet or sour. Maybe he was comparing it to the Japanese version or something?